La
Gomera is a small Canary island at the moment only reached by ferry or internal
flight. Though barely 15 miles across, it rises to over 4,000 feet at the peak of Garajonay and is so mountainous that exploring
fully could take months. The GarajonayNational Park is a sub-tropical rain forest,
frequently in low cloud and rain. The north of the island is similarly cloudy,
but the south enjoys much sunshine all year, and in summer, despite its
proximity to the Tropic of Cancer, is usually pleasantly warm rather than
sweltering.
The
properties we deal with are mostly situatedat the top end of Valle Gran Rey, one of the more majestic valleys to
the Southwest. Tourist development on the coast, which boasts the best of the
island's black sandy beaches, has ensured a good selection of bars and
restaurants, but up the valley little has changed. People and animals live
comfortably side by side and the principle activities are tilling the fertile
terraces, collecting fodder for goats or just sitting on walls and chatting.
The
properties are owned by local people who are still very much involved in the
traditional way of life. They speak no English - not that this necessarily
restricts conversation as they are immensely friendly and welcoming. To minimise
any language difficulties we have enlisted the help of Josefina, who has lived
and worked in England. She is on hand to make introductions and offer help or
advice where needed - she makes particularly fine cheese!
There
are shops and bars within fairly easy walking. The extensive network of donkey
tracks linking the various settlements and remote cultivated terraces has
remained largely intact over the generations. Many paths are still used
regularly, both by walkers and by locals going about their business, although
it is not uncommon to walk for hours without seeing a soul. The paths wind and
twist upwards, and it is frequently impossible to begin to guess the directions
they will take, but the breathtaking scenery distracts attention from the height
being gained.
In
addition, those interested in bird watching, butterflies or botany will be
forever pausing to investigate new delights. Most people will find at least a
week's worth of spectacular walks from the door, but a car allows the option to
explore further. For those needing a day off, the whale and dolphin watching
trips are accompanied by experts and equal any to be found in the Northernhemisphere. Year-round temperatures average
between 18 and 25 degrees, and there are no mosquitoes.